In part 4 of the Infinity Dress Sewalong, we’ll start sewing! Gather your cut out pattern pieces, fabric marker, coordinating thread, pins, scissors, and of course sewing machine. A serger is optional. We’re using a contrast thread throughout this Infinity Dress Sewalong for visibility purposes, but we advise you to use coordinating thread for your dress. We’ll walk you through Steps 1-4 of the instructions.
Step 1: Mark pleats
Mark the pleat lines and placement lines on the Straps using tailors chalk or a fabric safe pen. Make the pleat and placement line slightly longer to clearly see which line is what.
Step 2: Pleat
Make the pleats by folding the fabric along each pleat line and moving it to the placement line. Start at the pleat line closest to the Center Front. Pinch it together with your fingers, and fold it towards the placement line.
Pin each pleat in place. The folds should butt against each other, not overlap. Continue until you have four pleats, in the direction away from the center front.
Step 3: Baste
Baste the pleats in place just inside the 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance. Repeat step 1-3 for the second strap.
Step 4: Finish the edges
You have three options for finishing the edges of the straps.
A – Don’t finish the strap edges. Most fabrics that are suitable for this dress won’t ravel so finishing the strap edge isn’t strictly necessary. Check the raw edge to clean up any sloppy cutting and leave it as is. We have chosen this method for this tutorial. Fold the long edge under 1/4″ (0,5 cm) at the bottom of the long edge and pin or baste in place.
B – Finish the long edges and the shortest edge of the straps (not the pleated bottom edge) with a narrow overlock on an overlocker/serger. Don’t cut off any fabric from the edge when you overlock. Your overlocking will not show at the bottom of the straps where it meets the waistband, but it will show further along the straps. Choose this method only when you have a coordinating thread colour for your fabric. Fold the long edge under 1/4″ (0,5 cm) at the bottom of the long edge and pin or baste in place.
C – Finish the long edges and the shortest edge of the straps (not the pleated bottom edge) by folding the edge over 1/4″ (0,5 cm) to the wrong side and topstitching it in place. Make sure you use a stitch that will stretch with the fabric, such as a narrow zig-zag or a specialty straight stretch stitch. Lower the pressure of your pressure foot and press afterwards to minimize stretching the fabric and prevent a wavy edge.
That’s it for today, your straps are now ready to attach to the waistband.